When buying a used truck, check the engine and driveline, the chassis and suspension, brakes and tyres, the cab and electrics, and the paperwork — in that order — before you talk money. The two things that decide whether a used truck is a bargain or a money pit are documented service history and the condition of the big-ticket driveline components. Use the checklist below, ideally with the engine cold so you can hear and see how it really starts.

Before you inspect: do the desk checks

Confirm the truck’s identity and finance status before you drive anywhere, because no mechanical inspection matters if there’s money owing on it. In Australia, run the truck through a PPSR check to see if it’s encumbered, written off or stolen, and match the VIN/chassis number to the paperwork. Also confirm registration status and when it’s next due.

Desk checks:

• PPSR check — finance owing, write-off and stolen status
• VIN / chassis / engine numbers match the rego papers
• Registration current, and roadworthy/inspection requirements for your state
• Service history — logbook, invoices, who maintained it

Engine and driveline

Start the engine cold and listen — this is where the biggest repair bills hide. A cold start tells you far more than a warmed-up engine the seller has already run. Watch the exhaust on start-up and under load: heavy blue smoke suggests oil burning, while excessive black or white smoke can point to fuelling or head-gasket issues.

Check:

• Cold start — cranks cleanly, no excessive smoke, no knocking
• Oil — level and condition; milky oil means coolant intrusion
• Coolant — clean, correct level, no oil contamination
• Leaks — engine, gearbox, diffs, power steering
• Clutch / transmission — smooth shifts, no slip or grind; for autos, no harsh or delayed changes
• Turbo — no excessive whine or oil in the intake

Chassis, suspension and driveline rust

Inspect the chassis rails closely, because chassis cracks or heavy rust can be expensive or unsafe to repair. Look along the rails near mounting points, the gooseneck and crossmembers for cracks, repairs or corrosion. On older trucks and anything from coastal or saltwater work, rust on the chassis and crossmembers is a serious red flag.

Also check:

• Suspension — leaf springs for cracks, airbags for leaks, shocks for oil
• Steering — play in the box and linkages
• Driveline — tailshaft uni joints and centre bearing for wear

Brakes, tyres and wheels

Check brakes and tyres carefully — they’re safety-critical and costly to replace across multiple axles. For air-brake trucks, listen for air leaks, check the system builds and holds pressure, and inspect linings and drums/discs for wear. On tyres, look at tread depth, even wear and the age of the rubber across all axles, including the spare.

Check:

• Air system — builds pressure, holds, no audible leaks
• Brake wear — linings, drums/discs across all axles
• Tyres — tread, even wear, age, matched sets; uneven wear can signal alignment or suspension issues
• Wheels — no cracks, correct studs, no signs of overheating at hubs

Cab, electrics and safety

Work through the cab systematically, because small faults add up and some are roadworthy items. Test every light, the wipers, horn, gauges, air-con and the tacho/speedo. Check seatbelts, the driver’s seat and air-seat, and that all warning lights extinguish after start-up.

For specific bodies and trailers, check the relevant gear too: tipper hoist and PTO operation, crane or hiab function, fridge unit hours, or trailer coupling, suspension and lights.

Body, application and hours

Match the truck’s history to your intended use, because a truck worked hard in one application may be tired for another. Ask what work it’s done — tipper, fridge, livestock, general freight — and weigh that against the hours/kilometres. High kilometres on a well-maintained highway truck can be a better buy than low kilometres on a hard-worked tipper.

Get an independent inspection

For anything beyond a quick local buy, get an independent pre-purchase inspection — it’s cheap insurance against a costly mistake. A qualified diesel mechanic or an organisation like your state auto club can spot problems an untrained eye misses. Buying from a reputable dealer like MWTM Group also gives you more recourse than a private sale.

Key takeaways

• Do the PPSR, rego and VIN checks first — sort finance and identity before mechanicals.
• Start the engine cold and watch the smoke and oil — driveline is where big bills hide.
• Inspect the chassis for cracks and rust, especially on ex-coastal trucks.
• Brakes and tyres are safety-critical and dear across multiple axles — check them all.
• Match history to your use, and get an independent inspection before you commit.

Find your next truck

Browse our current trucks or see everything in stock to compare makes, configurations and condition — Kenworth, Hino and more. Want a hand assessing a specific truck against this checklist? Call MWTM Group on 02 6331 4331. We deliver Australia-wide.